National

The Best Day-Sails on the French Coast

Six of the finest day-sails in France ranked by a visiting cruiser: distances, sailing times and the islands and bays worth the passage there and back.

A great day-sail has a shape to it. You slip the lines after a leisurely breakfast, you have a proper passage with real wind and a destination worth the effort, you arrive with time to swim and eat, and you are home before the evening goes cold. Not too far, not too tame. France has more of these than any cruising ground I know, partly because the islands sit at such obliging distances off the coast. After a good few seasons working both the Atlantic and the Med, these are the six I rank highest, and why.

I am scoring each on three counts: a passage long enough to feel like sailing, a destination that earns the trip, and a return that gets you home in daylight. A 4-mile motor to a crowded beach does not make the list. A genuine sail to somewhere special does.

1. Iles de Glenan from the Brittany coast

The Glenan archipelago lies about 10 nautical miles off the south Brittany coast, roughly 90 minutes of sailing in a decent breeze, and it is the finest day-sail in France. The water inside the ring of low islets is an unreal Caribbean turquoise over white sand, and on a settled summer day you anchor in the central lagoon, swim, and sail home on the afternoon breeze. The passage is open enough to be real sailing and short enough that you are back at Benodet or Concarneau for dinner.

It needs a settled forecast, because there is little shelter if the wind gets up and the anchorage is shallow with patchy holding. Pick your day. My guide to the Glenan archipelago anchorage has the detail on where to drop the hook.

2. Iles de Lerins from Cannes

The opposite end of the spectrum, and a perfect day-sail for a light crew or a nervous one. Sainte-Marguerite, the larger of the two Lerins islands, sits less than a mile off Cannes, a ten-minute hop, and a full round trip is only about 6 miles. That sounds too short to count, but the joy here is that you can ghost across in the lightest air, anchor off the pine-covered island, walk to the fort that held the Man in the Iron Mask, and be back in Cannes by aperitif time.

It is the day-sail I recommend to friends finding their feet on the Riviera. Easy water, a real island, no commitment. The Lerins islands anchorage off Cannes piece covers the moorings and the anchoring rules, which matter here because of the seagrass.

3. Porquerolles from Hyeres

Porquerolles sits about 4 miles off the Giens peninsula near Hyeres, around half an hour under sail, and it is the best island day-sail on the Var coast. From a base further along, Bormes-les-Mimosas to the main harbour is closer to 20 miles, which makes a fuller day. The island has white-sand beaches on the north shore, vineyards, a proper village square and cycle tracks, so a non-sailing crew member gets a real day out while the sailor gets a satisfying passage across the bay.

Anchoring on the north side is good in sand, but the south coast is exposed and the whole island is a national park with seagrass protection, so mind where you drop. The Porquerolles and the Hyeres islands guide has the seasonal anchoring rules.

4. Belle-Ile from Quiberon

Belle-Ile is the grandest day-sail in south Brittany, though it is more of a full-day commitment than the others. From the Quiberon area you are looking at a couple of hours each way to reach Sauzon or Le Palais, so this is a dawn-to-dusk affair rather than a lazy lunch run. The reward is the biggest of the Breton islands, with dramatic cliffs, two proper harbours and the kind of scale that makes you want to stay the night. Many do. Treat it as a long day-sail with the option to swing onto a buoy and not come back. My Belle-Ile sailing notes cover the harbours and the tides.

5. Ile de Brehat from the Trieux river

A north Brittany gem and a different kind of day-sail, because the tides do half the work. Brehat sits in a maze of pink-granite rocks at the mouth of the Trieux, and you time your run for the flood, thread up through the channel and pick up a visitor buoy off this car-free island of flowers and footpaths. It is shorter on passage than Belle-Ile but far more demanding on pilotage, so it suits a sailor who enjoys reading the water. The Ile de Brehat and the Trieux river guide walks through the rock-dodging.

6. Into the calanques from Marseille or Cassis

Not an island, but it earns its place. The Calanques between Marseille and Cassis are limestone fjords with vertical white walls and water the colour of swimming-pool tiles. A day-sail along this coast, ducking into Sormiou or En-Vau to anchor and swim, is unforgettable. Distances are short, but the scenery and the swimming make a full day easy to fill. Be warned that summer brings anchoring restrictions and a permit scheme in places, which I cover in the Calanques of Marseille and Cassis by boat.

The honourable mentions

A few more deserve a word. The Iles d'Hyeres beyond Porquerolles, Port-Cros and the Levant, make a slightly longer day from the Var coast and reward it with a national-park island where cars are banned and the water is protected, covered in my notes on Port-Cros national park and its moorings. On the Atlantic, the Ile de Re is a soft, flat day-sail from La Rochelle, a couple of hours across the Pertuis Breton to a pretty island of whitewashed villages and oyster huts, which I detail in Ile de Re by boat. And from Cannes or Antibes, a sail across to anchor off Saint-Tropez and back makes a grand full day on the Riviera, though you will share the water with half the south of France in August.

What these have in common with the top six is balance: a real passage out, a destination with substance, and a return inside the day. That is the formula, and France offers it in more places than any one summer can exhaust.

Planning a day-sail that works

Three habits keep my day-sails enjoyable rather than fraught. First, I always know my return time and my no-go wind speed before I leave, written on the chart. Second, I check the afternoon sea breeze, which on both the Med and the Atlantic can pipe up to 20-plus knots after lunch and turn a gentle morning into a wet beat home. Third, I never plan a day-sail that depends on perfect conditions to be safe, because the forecast will let you down at least once a season.

One detail that separates a good day-sail from a great one: arrive early enough to get the pick of the anchorage. The best spots in the Glenan lagoon, off Porquerolles or in a Calanque fill by late morning in season, and the difference between dropping the hook at ten and arriving at one is the difference between a quiet swim and a crowded scramble for swinging room. I would rather leave the marina at eight and have the place to myself for two hours than enjoy a lazy breakfast and fight for space.

Get those right and France hands you a summer of perfect days. If a day-sail tempts you into staying out longer, my picks for the best wild and remote anchorages show where to keep going once the sun says you should be heading home.

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